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Dine, drink and be virtuous By John Newton March 8, 2005

There are ways to make eating good for you - and the planet.

This isn't intended to make you choke on your macchiato - but have you ever
thought about the farmer who grew the coffee beans and whether he was paid
enough for his crop to feed his family? Did you consider whether rainforest
was cleared for its cultivation? Do you give a damn?

Putting the guilt trip aside for a moment, the answer to most of these
questions is, well, yes. These issues bother us - but what can we do about
it?

Quite a lot it seems, if you follow the example of the United States. There,
an organisation known as LOHAS, which stands for Lifestyles of Health and
Sustainability, has identified and researched the growing demand from
ethical consumers.

It promotes a marketplace which, it claims, is worth about $290 billion. The
LOHAS consumer, it says, "values health, the environment, social justice,
personal development and sustainable living" and accounts for about 30 per
cent of adult Americans.

Much of the LOHAS philosophy dovetails with the ideas of the Slow Food
movement, founded in 1986, which defends the rights of consumers to be
informed about the food they buy and eat, promotes the preservation of
cultural food identities and gastronomic traditions and tries to safeguard
food cultivation and processing techniques.

Advertisement AdvertisementCarlo Petrini, the founder of the Slow Food
movement, says that even vegetarians aren't necessarily buying and eating
ethically.

"Many greenies have a catastrophic vision of the world," he says. "They eat
bad food and think it is good for the world. I want to eat well and know it
is good for the world."

One of the main considerations of those who aim to eat ethically is how far
the food has travelled before it arrives on the plate - or food miles, as
the calculation is known.

It works like this: between December and March, any lemon you squeeze over a
piece of fish is most likely to have travelled about 12,000 kilometres from
California. What's wrong with that? In addition to the high cost of an
imported lemon, there are hidden costs: fuel costs to get it here (air
freight is 40 times dearer than sea) and carbon dioxide emissions. It's a
very expensive lemon.

World watch Australian Marine Conservation Society Conservative estimate of
the state of fisheries. Australian Fisheries Management Authority The body
responsible for the management of Australia's fishery resources. Marine
Stewardship Council Independent global non-profit organisation that
recognises and certifies well-managed fisheries. River Cottage Hugh
Fearnley-Whittingstall's meat website. Fairtrade Coffee Full list of
roasters, stockists and cafes. Rainforest Alliance List of activities of
this New York-based organisation. Sustain Pioneer of the food miles
campaign. David Harris of Harris Farm Markets is aware of the problems of
importing food. "We buy from Darwin and Kununurra in Western Australia, we
import kiwi fruit from Italy," he says. "Is this a good thing? What it means
is there's now an expectation that everything will be available all year
round. It was a lot easier when something rushed in and rushed out in three
months."

Professional chefs are sympathetic to the idea of eating food produced
locally but Bistro Moncur's Damien Pignolet speaks for many when he says
it's simply not pragmatic. "The real problem for a chef thinking about these
things," Pignolet says, "is that they limit what you can buy. We have to
produce a dish at a market-sensitive price and make a profit."

But if things are to change, says John Priestley, a veteran organic farmer
from Paterson, north of Maitland, we must start thinking in a radically
different way about the way we consume, "rebuilding a relationship between
the producer and the consumer, so that the product is grown or reared as
close as possible to the point of consumption".

What to do about that expensive flying lemon? Use limes instead - they're in
season and they're cheap.

Perhaps the most complex ethical problems, however, are those faced by those
of us who eat meat. On the whole, our treatment of the animals we eat is
appalling. A leap, as radical groups argue, from the bad treatment of
animals to a proposal for mass vegetarianism is, however, not only unlikely
but impractical.

It has been estimated that the beef cattle population of the world is just
over a billion; sheep (some raised for their wool) 1.2 billion; pigs 857
million and goats 94 million. The number of people involved in the
husbandry, slaughter and processing of those animals would run into the
millions, and the revenue into the billions.

Abolishing meat rearing clearly would have huge economic implications and
impact upon global employment.

Patrice Newell, a bio-dynamic beef and olive farmer in the upper Hunter,
also argues such a move would be an act of cruelty to all native animals.
"In the cause of growing cereals, animals are being wiped out to plant those
huge monocultural cereal farms."

But ethical animal farming is possible. Organic farmer Garry Hannigan runs
5000 head of sheep on his property between Wilcannia and Broken Hill. His
stock rate is ridiculously low, one sheep to 9 hectares. "The return is
better for the organic product [between 20-25 per cent more than for a
conventional carcass] so I can run less stock to make the same amount of
money, which is better for the land. We're supplying a superior product and
working with the environment."

English writer and beef farmer Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall has become quite
an influential figure in this debate. In The River Cottage Meat Book, he
makes the case for ethical animal farming with the concept of "symbiotic
dependency". That is, in return for providing meat, the farmer gives the
animals natural grazing, shelter, space to roam and a reasonable lifespan.

But consumers, too, have a responsibility. Meat raised in this ethical
manner inevitably costs more. Fearnley-Whittingstall recommends we "pay
twice as much money for half as much meat". The benefits are taste (give me
pasture-fed beef over grain-fed anytime) and purity - such meat won't be
laced with dodgy chemical residues.

Fishing is another industry that needs an overhaul: stocks have been
affected by factory farming and other unethical practices. According to
Charles Clover's book, The End of the Line, global fish catches have been in
decline since 1988. Clover's book concentrates on European waters and the
Atlantic Ocean.

In Australian waters, it is a different story; in some respects, at least,
we seem to be getting things right. According to seafood consultant and
activist John Susman, "We've got 12 governing authorities on fisheries
[geographical fish stocks]. We're recognised as world's best practice."

Our state fisheries oversee the level of bio-mass (number of fish in the
ocean) within three nautical miles
(5.6km) of the coast. The Australian Fisheries Management Authority covers
all Australian fisheries from the states' limit to 200 nautical miles
(370km) around the coast. And, according to AFMA spokesman Michael Parolin,
"there is a lot of interaction with the states, for example, in managing
tuna".

There are two major issues for the ethical fish buyer. First, how the fish
is caught. For example, one method of catching tuna, dropping a floating
object in the sea which attracts tuna, then netting all around the school,
can result in huge by-catches (fish caught other than the target fish).

Clover quotes figures from the eastern Pacific showing that, in catching
15,571 tons of tuna, an additional
237 tons of sharks, rays and 15,500 tons of other fish were killed - a
by-catch of 50 per cent. But, as you may notice, no dolphins. When you see
"dolphin safe" on a can of tuna, remember, it doesn't mean fish, shark or
ray safe.

The second is calculating the bio-mass which, as Parolin says, "is open to a
lot of contention - it's not like counting cows in a paddock".

If you visit the websites of some of the organisations concerned with the
sustainability of our fisheries
(see below), you'll see many species labelled as "overfished". Parolin says
this fails to take into account "the larger story of recovery plans in
progress".

In Australia we are confronting these issues, improving catching methods to
cut down on by-catch, managing and even reviving declining fisheries. The
same can't be said for some neighbouring countries. "We import 70 per cent
of the fin fish we consume," Susman says, "from sources regarded by the
Australian Quarantine Inspection Service as 'safe' - but that has nothing to
do with sustainability."

The golden rule for buying fish in Sydney is to "feel comfortable buying
fresh and buying Australian". With a couple of exceptions: orange roughy and
eastern gemfish are, at the moment, on everybody's don't-buy list. And think
twice before buying school shark (greenlip) and southern blue fin tuna.

So, finally, let's return to that macchiato. Coffee grown on the far North
Coast of NSW is probably the best option - it is organically produced and
uses fewer pesticides than imported rivals. But if you turn your nose up at
homegrown, Fairtrade Coffee must be your next resort. Fairtrade (based in
Canberra and marketed by Oxfam) and Rainforest Alliance (in New York) have
taken some of the guilt out of the coffee transaction. Through arrangements
with green bean buyers, brokers and roasters, both organisations guarantee
growers a minimum price for their beans; Rainforest Alliance certifies that
its coffee (and other crops) come from environmentally sustainable
plantations.

The two came about in recent years when the prices paid to farmers for
coffee beans plunged to about
50 US cents a pound ($1.40 a kilogram).

In Australia, a few boutique roasters and Starbucks have Fairtrade coffee.
However, according to Andrew Mackay of coffee importer Cofi-Com, "the larger
roasters are coming on board". So far, instant coffee manufacturers have yet
to join either organisation.

Single Origin Roasters, a boutique operation in Surry Hills, sells three
certified Fairtrade coffees, and steers clear of coffees from unsustainable
plantations. How do Gavin and Martine Folden, partners in Single Origin,
find out what is ethically acceptable? Martine says: "Banging our heads
against brick walls, and asking brokers." Barista Gavin adds: "But it's a
juggling act - quality is as important as origin."

And that is what it's all about.

The last word for now on the LOHAS phenomenon comes from pollster Paul Ray
in The New York Times: "What you're seeing is a demand for products of equal
quality that are virtuous." Virtuous ... now there's a word for the 21st
century.

Good habits John Newton's family attempts ethical eating for a week. Before
I began this week of ethical eating, I drew up some guidelines, the first of
which was to try to reduce personal food miles by shopping as close to home
(Glebe) as possible and buying food grown close to Sydney.

I asked the grocer: Is it seasonal? Is it local?

The butcher: Is it organic? Pasture-fed?

The fishmonger: Is it endangered? Is it Australian? Is it fresh?

The coffee shop/roaster: Is it local; is it certified Fairtrade? Is it
rainforest-friendly?

My preference was for organic - and where this was difficult, Australian
produce (I tried to record exact origins).

Where the produce was not organic, I checked the credentials of the farmer.
For example, Bangalow Pork does not use growth hormones or antibiotics,
ditto Kangaroo Island chickens.

And where mass-market food had to be used, I tried to check the contents and
origins with the manufacturer. Our eldest daughter refused to give up her
Vegemite.

OK, but where do the ingredients come from? Kraft's corporate affairs
department says Vegemite is 96 per cent Australian, made with 4 per cent
imported ingredients.

A caveat - teenagers are difficult to please and no amount of persuasion or
bribery will change their eating preferences.

The week got off to a bad start on Saturday with a teen birthday party. I
caved in. They had Domino's Pizza: non organic, mix of local and imported
ingredients; Smith's Crisps: non-organic, made in Australia from
Australian-grown potatoes - but according to consumer infoline "may be some
imported ingredients in flavours"; and raw local veggies from Galluzzo in
Glebe. Sunday, however, started well with the youngsters eating Clarendon
Farm organic free range eggs from Pitt Town via IGA Riteway Glebe and
Bangalow bacon (all meat from TJ's Organic Butcher in Balmain unless
otherwise noted) with cherry tomatoes from Kemps Creek via Galluzzo.
Shepherd's Bakehouse sliced white organic bread with Tatura organic butter
and Organic By Nature Coastal Spotted Gum honey (from the Organic Shop,
Rozelle). East Timor Fairtrade coffee from Toby's Estate.

Sunday dinner

Roasted Cornucopia bio-dynamic chook from Gresford, north of Maitland, with
local kipfler potatoes and local jap pumpkin from Harris, and organic red
onions from Organic Shop. We drank Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, the children
drank Berri Apple Mango cordial (made in Australia from Australian and
imported ingredients). Strawberries from South Australia with Sara Lee
vanilla ice-cream (also "from Australian and imported ingredients").

Weekday breakfasts

Usually a combination of Sonoma country white and Vegemite, Uncle Toby's
OT's (made here, local and imported ingredients), seasonal, local fruit such
as peaches and nectarines from Forbes, with Jalna Victorian bio-dynamic
yoghurt and East Timor coffee with Barambah milk (from south-east
Queensland).

Monday dinner

Spiral Australian organic pasta from the Organic Shop with sauce of organic
mince, red onion, Bangalow bacon, Australian garlic and Coles Organic Pasta
Sauce. Only when I got pasta home did I notice it was gluten free. When
cooked, it turned to mush. Into the bin. Used leftover imported Italian.

Tuesday dinner

Organic meat sausages (only the meat was organic, butcher told us) and
mashed unwashed local spuds from Galluzzo (in preference to the dismal
organic variety at GNC Livewell). Rocket and scallion salad from Galluzzo
dressed with Rosto Australian extra virgin olive oil from Merriwa (Upper
Hunter Valley) and Harris Farm. Stewed figs for dessert.

Wednesday dinner

Roast lamb shoulder from the Kurtz farm in Oberon rolled around fresh
rosemary and sliced organic garlic, with baby green beans from the Manning
Valley's Tinonee via Fratelli Fresh and a salad of rocket and baby fennel
from Victoria and a bottle of De Iuliis Shiraz from the Hunter. Later
realised that lamb and green beans not strictly seasonal.

Thursday dinner

Fresh Peppe's pasta, made from Bellata Gold durum wheat from Tamworth, with
cubes of Barambah organic feta forked through it. Cheated by adding Tunisian
harissa. Victorian baby roma tomatoes from Fratelli Fresh, preserved
home-grown lemons, local spring onions and thyme from the garden.

Friday dinner

Two fine local leatherjacket from De Costi at Broadway, fried in organic
butter and imported Spanish capers, with local baby rocket and Kemps Creek
baby roma tomatoes, and Trentham Estate Sauvignon Blanc from the Murray
River.

Saturday dinner

Ate out for a restaurant review.

Sunday dinner

South Australian prawns from Christie's at the Fish Market tossed in
Pastabilities egg pappardelle with local shallots, Sydney Basin coriander,
organic garlic.

Reviewing our week of eating ethically, we noticed how European our diet had
been. Usually, we cook a lot of Asian food, which requires imported
ingredients - the Australian-made soy and black bean sauces are not up to
scratch. I'm not happy with the sustainability of Australian-grown rice (I
could find no organic Australian rice). On the other hand, almost 100 per
cent of our Asian greens are grown in the Sydney Basin.

We found it quite easy to cut down on food miles, especially with fresh
fruit, vegetables and seafood, just by asking the retailer about origins.

Best discoveries

Tatura organic butter, Toby's Estate East Timor Fairtrade coffee and
Barambah brie.

Old favourites

Sonoma bread, Jalna Yoghurt, Clarendon Farm organic eggs, Barambah organic
milk and Young Maid cherry jam.

The last word

The End of the Line by Charles Clover, Ebury Press ($48.95).

The River Cottage Meat Book by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Hodder &
Stoughton ($69.95).

Fast Food Nation by Eric Schlosser, Houghton, Mifflin ($24.95).